5 days - September 2019
If paradise exists it has to look like Sifnos!
Its sweetness of life, white houses, sardines and anchovies freshly caught and blue everywhere: the sea, the shutters of the houses, the sky. Quiet and wild, we loved the island.
Is Sifnos the most beautiful island in the Cyclades? Probably.
Hair in the wind on our scooter (well actually helmet in the wind;)), walking, by bus and also hitchhiking, we travel around this small island, walking on top of cliffs, by the sea, going inland, getting lost in small villages, all white.
Our first ride takes us from South- Platis Gialos- to Kastro. Three hours walking along the coast, the water is turquoise blue, we visit some monasteries such as Chrissopigi monastery, ideally placed, all white too. Faros and its beach gives way to the mountain and we walk up up up for a 360 degree view of the island and the Aegean Sea!
Finally a few kilometers further, we get lost in Kastro, its beautiful white lanes, pink bougainvillea and always blue shutters everywhere. The village, perched, is beautiful. At his feet, the chapel Epta Martyrs (seven Martyrs) with a blue dome, so photogenic. It must be said that the monks choose well their place of residence! 30 minutes later, the beach Dialiskari and its monastery offers us again beautiful colors, all shades of blue.
Another equally beautiful hike will take us south, from Platis Gialos to Fikadia Bay.
Always along the coast, surrounded by olive trees, we get to a pass to find us on the other side of the mountain. With pleasure we arrive at the bay, really beautiful, dripping with sweat, ready to swim, to discover four old people... naked! Yes the beach, away from everything, is nudist! Big laugh, we continue our journey and get to a little further and find a bay just as beautiful. Sometimes turquoise water, sometimes deep blue, good temperature, what a beautiful day.
Finally we will go north to face the mountain roads with our scooter.
On the road, main place of the island is the small village of Apollonia. I let you guess the color of houses and shutters?
In the evening, the taverns get seats and table outside and we will enjoy Moussaka, stuffed aubergines, Greek risotto, Greek yoghurt soup at Okyalos. A delight. We will also test the marinated Anchovies and of course the local feta!
A bit further, we find a village a bit more authentic Artemonas. Deserted alleys, lethargic atmosphere, the locals are hiding from the scorching sun. In the evening the old guys go out and squat the terraces of the taverns, cigarette in mouth! An incredible sweetness of life.
And finally even more north is Cherinnos, to be deserved after many turns in laces. We prefer Vroulidia, with its cliffs and beach a bit more difficult to access and therefore without any tourists. A word of advice, do not go all the way down on a scooter, in which case you will need to push it up;).
A real pleasure to spend 5 days in this little paradise, far from the mass tourism of other well-known islands.
We found breathtaking landscapes and especially a local life that seems to have not evolved in years!
# to get there from Athens. Fast ferry two hours at 50 euros or 4 hours of navigation at 36 euros.
# We stayed in Platis Gialos in the south of the island in a charming Airbnb on the heights. 40 euros a night.
# Scooter rental for 24 hours: 15 euros. Avoid if possible Yannis, old scooter and especially him and his wife are really not lovable ....
# at Platis Gialos we tested Mamma Mia (not very Greek all that but great pizzas at 10 euros) and Taverne Steki. At the top for very reasonable prices.
#A Apollonia: Okyalos tavern for modern Greek cuisine. Top !